Don't Ruin It: How to Actually Look After Genuine Military Surplus

RAF Royal Air Force Vintage Wool Jacket Airforce Blue Grey Colour Serge WW2 Pattern World War 2

Genuine military kit survived decades of actual military life before it got to you — it can survive your wardrobe too, as long as you don't do anything silly like tumble-drying a wool No1 jacket (yes, someone has genuinely done this, and yes, it came out looking suitable for a very small child). Here's practical, no-nonsense care advice by material type.

Wool dress uniforms (No1/No2/FAD jackets, greatcoats)

Genuine wool naval mess dress jacket on a hanger Wool dress uniform: dry clean, hang, never tumble dry

Dry clean rather than machine wash — wool dress uniform can shrink or lose its shape in a home wash, and shrinkage on wool is not reversible. Store on a proper wide hanger (not folded, and not a thin wire hanger) to keep the shoulders and cut, and keep it somewhere with reasonable airflow rather than sealed in plastic, which can trap moisture against the wool and encourage moth activity. If you're worried about moths specifically, cedar blocks or lavender sachets nearby are a gentler option than mothballs, which can leave a smell that's hard to shift.

Between wears, a soft clothes brush run over the wool in the direction of the nap lifts dust and surface dirt without needing a clean at all — this alone will get you a lot more wears between dry-clean trips.

Combat and field kit (DPM, MTP, cotton/polycotton)

Genuine ex-issue combat jacket, the practical everyday kind of surplus that can go straight in the wash Combat kit is built for exactly this kind of practical washing

Most combat kit can be machine washed on a moderate temperature (30–40°C is usually safe) — check any care label present, but genuine issue combat clothing is generally built for exactly this kind of practical washing; it was designed to be laundered in bulk by the military in the first place. Avoid fabric softener on waterproof or treated smocks (Gore-Tex and similar), as it can coat and clog the fabric's pores and reduce breathability. Turn camo items inside out before washing to protect any printed or dyed pattern from fading against other items in the drum.

Leather items (belts, gloves, boots)

Keep leather away from direct heat sources (radiators, direct sun, car parcel shelves) which can dry and crack it over time — heat is the single fastest way to age leather badly. A leather conditioner used occasionally helps keep leather belts and boots supple, especially on older genuine issue leather that's already had decades of drying out. If boots get wet, let them dry naturally at room temperature stuffed with paper to hold their shape — never force-dry leather boots next to a radiator or heater, as the sudden heat causes cracking and shrinkage.

Badges, buttons and metal insignia

Remove from clothing before washing where possible — both to protect the badge and to stop metal fittings scratching the machine drum or other items. Brass and gilt badges can be polished carefully with a proper metal polish, though genuine aged patina is often preferable to over-polishing on older items — particularly if you want it to look authentically used rather than suspiciously brand new. If a badge is staybrite (anodised, matt finish rather than shiny brass), don't polish it at all — the finish is deliberate and polish will strip it.

Common mistakes that shorten an item's life

  • Tumble drying wool — the single most common way to ruin a genuine dress jacket. Heat plus tumbling shrinks wool fast and permanently.
  • Storing in sealed plastic — traps moisture, encourages mildew and can cause colours to migrate onto adjacent fabric in warm storage.
  • Ironing directly on badges or buttons — can melt staybrite finishes or scorch fabric around metal fittings. Iron around them, or use a cloth barrier.
  • Leaving leather to dry near heat — cracks and shrinks leather that would otherwise have lasted decades more.

Long-term storage

Whatever the material, avoid long-term storage in damp conditions or sealed plastic bags — both encourage mould and mildew over time. A breathable garment bag, in a dry space, is the safest long-term option for anything you're not wearing regularly. If you're storing several wool items together, a light airing every few months (just hanging them out, not necessarily washing) keeps moths and damp at bay far better than leaving them undisturbed in a wardrobe for a year.


If a specific item you've bought from us needs particular care advice, email us at sales@jungleuk.com and we're happy to help.