Two jackets, side by side, both look the part in a photo — and one costs three times the other. What gives? "Genuine Issue" and "Reproduction" are two very different products wearing the same disguise, and once you know what to look for, telling them apart is easier than you'd think.
What each term actually means
Genuine issue means the item was made to official military contract specification and was actually issued to (or held in stock for) real armed forces personnel — it's the real thing, second-hand or occasionally new-old-stock, not a copy.
Reproduction means a modern copy made to look like a military item — sometimes very accurately "made to military specification", sometimes more loosely "military-style" or "military-inspired". Reproductions aren't fakes being passed off dishonestly (a genuine retailer will always tell you which is which) — they're a legitimate, usually cheaper option, especially for costume, fancy dress or everyday wear where authenticity matters less than look and comfort.
Genuine issue: a real ex-military 1980s combat jacket, actually issued and worn.
Reproduction: a modern M65-style jacket, made to a similar look but never actually issued.
How to actually tell them apart
- Sizing system. Genuine issue items almost always use the issuing country's real military sizing (height/chest/waist codes, for example) rather than high-street S/M/L. If something claiming to be genuine is sized S/M/L/XL, that's worth double-checking — real armies did not, as far as we're aware, ever issue a "Medium".
- Signs of real wear. Genuine used kit usually shows honest signs of age — fading, natural creasing, sometimes a name tag or unit marking from a previous owner. Reproductions are usually uniformly new, or artificially "distressed" in a way that looks different from real wear once you know what to look for — real wear happens in the places a body actually moves, not wherever looks good in a factory.
- Construction and hardware. Genuine issue clothing is built to contract specification — consistent stitching density and matching hardware throughout. Reproductions can vary a lot in quality depending on the maker.
- Official markings. Genuine kit often carries real military markings — stores codes, contract stamps, or (particularly on British items) the broad arrow property mark. Reproductions won't have genuine period-correct markings, even if they're printed with something that looks similar.
- Price. It's not foolproof, but it's a useful sense-check: genuine issue is typically the pricier option, simply because supply is finite — once the original stock of a given item is gone, it's gone. If a "genuine" listing is priced suspiciously close to a mass-produced reproduction, ask before you buy.
- The listing language itself. Terms like "military-style" or "military-inspired" are a reliable signal that something is a reproduction, not genuine issue — genuine sellers use this language specifically so there's no confusion.
Which one should you buy?
It depends what you actually need it for:
- Re-enactment, collecting, and anyone wanting the real thing — genuine issue every time. Nothing else has the same history or authenticity.
- Everyday wear, fashion, or a first foray into the look — reproduction is often more practical: usually cheaper, available new in consistent modern sizing, without the wear genuine used items naturally carry.
- Fancy dress and costume — either works well, and reproduction can be the more comfortable, better-fitting option for a one-off event.
On our site, every listing is clearly marked Genuine or Reproduction so you always know exactly what you're buying — no guesswork, no small print, no surprises when it turns up.
The middle ground nobody mentions
Genuine and reproduction is presented as a clean split, and it is not. There is a large middle category that catches people out:
- Contract overruns — made to the military specification, on the same line, but never issued. Genuinely military-made, but never in service.
- Commercial copies of issue patterns — made to look identical and sold to cadets, security firms and the outdoor trade. Often well-made, never issued.
- Refurbished issue — genuine, used, then cleaned, re-dyed or repaired for resale. Still genuine, but not in the condition it left service.
- Composite items — a genuine garment with replacement buttons or badges added later. Extremely common, and not dishonest, but it matters if you are buying for accuracy.
None of these is a scam. But "genuine" means different things across them, so it is always worth asking a seller which of these they mean.
What actually decides the price
For most items on the surplus market, the premium for genuine over reproduction is smaller than people assume — because most surplus is plentiful. Where the gap becomes enormous is with anything scarce: a badge from a short-lived regiment, an officer's privately-tailored garment, or anything with a documented history. There, genuine and reproduction are not competing products at all.
Shop the kit
Everything below is genuine surplus, in stock now.
